Patterned fabrics having relief patterns and method of producing the same

ABSTRACT

PATTERNED FABRICS HAVING RELIEF PATTERNS CONSISTING OF AT LEAST TWO TYPES OF YARN EACH HAVING A DIFFERENT SHRINKABILITY AND DIFFERENT DYE AFFINITY, THE LESS SHRINKABLE YARN FORMING THE RELIEF PATTERN WHILE THE MORE SHRINKABLE YARN FORMS THE BASE OR GROUND OF THE FABRIC.

US. Cl. 161-72 6 Claims ABSTRACT on THE DISCLOSURE Patterned fabricshaving relief patterns consisting of at least two types of yarn eachhaving a different shrinkability and different'dye affinity, the lessshrinkable yarn forming the relief pattern while the more shrinkableyarn forms the base or ground of the fabric.

This invention relates to patterned fabrics particularly knitted fabricsprovided with relief patterns and to a method of making the same. Moreparticularly this invention relates to patterned fabrics having at leasttwo color relief patterns.

Relief patterned and differently colored fabrics are known in thetextile industry and have heretofore been produced by knitting and inparticular by weft knitting or warp knitting, their relief patternsbeing obtained for example, in the process of stitch formation by makingthe lengths of the sinker loops on relief pattern forming threadsdifferent from those of sinker loops of threads constituting the fabricbase or ground. 1.

According to another known method, the relief effect of the pattern hasbeen produced by the combination of rib courses and plain coursesinterlocked according to a given design. The difference between theheight of the relief effect and the ground depends on the difference inthe length of the aforesaid sinker loops forming the rib and plainstitches respectively.

One of the disadvantages of relief patterns which have been made in thismanner lies in that when knitting the individual wales forming therelief pattern, the long sinker loops which project outfrom thepattern-are frequently prone to damaging the fabric during themanipulation and subsequent finishing steps thereof. A furtherdisadvantage of this method of producing relief patterned fabricconsists in the tedious, time consuming prepara tion of the conventionaland/ or synthetic yarns involved. The synthetic yarns are usuallytextured and have to be predyed in order to produce color patternstherefrom as it is not possible to produce fabrics from the undyed yarnsand to then subject them to piece-dyeing for obtaining multi-coloreffects. Finally, it is necessary to use for forming the rib stitchesparticularly high grade and therefore expensive yarns or textured yarnsif expressive relief effects are to be produced. Still further theoutput of the machines involved is relatively low since in producingrelief patterns according to the known methods one rib course and twoplain courses usually alternate so that the output of the machine having36 feeders amounts to 12 courses per revolution.

The coloration of the relief patterned knitted fabric prepared by theknown processes is accomplished by the coloration of the respectivebinding yarns it having been found desirable that the shrinkability ofthe relief pattern forming yarns and that of the yarns forming thefabric ground be the same or at least approximately similar.

United States Patent 3,795,569 Patented Mar. 5, 1974 The patterning isobtained by the well known methods of knitting wherein two or more typesof yarn are used varyingin dye affinity.

The dyeing of relief patterned knitted-fabrics has heretofore beencarried out using separate dyeing procedures.

It. is an object of the instant invention to provide patterned fabricshaving relief patterns while avoiding the aforementioned disadvantagesof the prior art.

It is another object of the invention to provide a method of producingknitted fabrics having improved relief pattern effects enabling simplerdyeing processes to be used.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a method ofproducing knitted fabrics having a relief pattern permitting higherproductivity to be obtained.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide such a method wherenew and improved results in the production of patterned fabrics andespecially of knitted fabrics can be realized.

In accordance with the invention the above and other objects andadvantages are realized by providing a relief patterned fabricconsisting of at least two yarn types each having a differentshrinkability as well as a different dye afiinity, the less shrinkableyarns forming the relief pattern and those of higher shrinkabilityforming the ground of the fabric. The difference in shrinkabilitybetween the two types of yarns amounts most advantageously in accordancewith the invention to at least 15%.

As instances of the more shrinkable yarns which can be used in theinvention there may be mentioned yarns containing filaments or staplefibers prepared from co-polyeach having adifferent shrinkability as wellas a different dye affinity, subjecting the resultant fabricsimultaneously or in sequence to a thermal treatment and a dyeingprocedure in a dyeing bath having a substantially different affinity forone of the types of yarn forming the fabric,

" the more shrinkable yarns which form the ground of the patternedfabric shrinking to a greater extent and thereby increasing the reliefeffect of the pattern made of the less shrinkable yarn whereby there isrealized an at least two color effect. The shrink-age of the fabric canbe preferably carried out in a dyeing bath having amarked afiinity forthe less shrinkable yarns which form the relief pattern.

Further advantages and characteristics of the invention will becomeapparent from the following more detailed description of the invention.

A knitted fabric having a relief pattern in accordance with theinvention is made for example on a Jacquard weft knitting machine, themore shrinkable yarns being used for knitting the rib courses while theless shrinkable yarns are used for knitting the plain courses formingthe relief pattern, the difference in shrinkablity between the twodifferent types of yarn amounting to at least 15%. The knitted fabric ismade of an undyed material, the ground yarns, i.e., the more shrinkableyarns consisting of filament or synthetic spun yarns containing asshrinkable component copolyester fibers prepared from polyethyleneterephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate or of shrinkable fibers baseon polyacrylonitrile, polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene and the like.

The shrinkage and the imparting of an at least two color dyeing to theknitted fabric is carried out in the wet state by heating the fabric ina dyeing bath having an affinity for only one of the types of yarnforming the fabric. In this manner there is realized, on the one hand, ashrinkage of the more shrinkable yarn forming the ground of knittedfabric and thus an increased relief effect of the pattern formed fromthe less shrinkable yarns, and on the other hand, a coloration of theyarn type which is dyeable in the said dye bath within the range of itsactive temperature. The latter type of yarn can be constituted by thepattern forming yarn, i.e., the less shrinkable yarn. However, the useof the more shrinkable yarn for this purpose is not excluded. By theshrinking of the ground of the fabric and especially of a knitted fabricthere is obtained or even increased the relief effect of the patternmade from low shrinking or non-shrinking binding yarn of up to -30% incomparison with the heretofore known techniques. There is also obtainedan at least two color effect of the fabric by using a shrinking andsimultaneous dyeing bath having an increased affinity for one of thetypes of binding yarn.

If the afiinity of the dyeing and shrinking bath is increasedparticularly with respect to the pattern forming or less shrinkableyarn, the relief pattern becomes not only more obvious as hereinaboveset forth but differs moreover in color from the shrunk threads formingthe fabric ground.

If the method of the invention is utilized in connection with the abovedescribed knitting machines having 36 feeders, it is possible by usingmaterials with different shrinkabilities to obtain a relief pattern withan alternating one rib course and one plain course in the fabric, theoutput of the machines thereby being increased to 18 courses perrevolution, i.e., by more than /2 as compared with the usual method ofknitting one rib course and two patterned plain courses. I

In addition it is possible to increase the height of the relief patternby up to 50% For these reasons the method of the invention for producingat least two color relief patterned fabrics from the point of view ofboth quality and output are more advantageous than any of the heretoforeknown combinations of materials or techniques. The considerablysimplified method according to the invention makes it possible in asingle operation to obtain an excellent relief effect which is apparentafter shrinking on the face of the fabric together with the simultaneousor eventual different coloration of the corresponding binding threadsforming the pattern. 7

By shrinking the more shrinkable yarn forming the ground of the weftknitted fabric, the extensibility of the fabric is reduced. Thisreduction of extensibility is proportional to the difference inshrinkability between the binding yarns involved. The results of testscarried out by applicants have proved that it is possible to obtain inthis way an extensibility of knitted fabrics similar to that obtainedwith warp knitted fabric but whose performance when the fabrics aremanufactured in accordance with the invention is much more satisfactorybecause its drape has not been impaired. This latter feature is 'veryimportant for certain types of fabric and especially in connection withfabrics intended for outer wear. Further advantageous effects are due tothe considerable weight proportion of non-shrinkable binding threads inthe knitted fabric, the shrink resistance of these binding threadsrendering the relief pattern on the face side more marked.

It is to be understood that instead of two yarn types each having adifferent shrinkability there can be used a combination ofnon-shrinkable and shrinkable yarn. Further the knitted fabric can beproduced as a patterned single jersey fabric using the same method.Still further it is possible to use more than two types of yarn eachhaving a different shrinkability and possibly each having a differentdye capacity.

lustrating the invention but are innowise to be construed as alimitation of the scope thereof.

EXAMPLE 1 There was used in this case for the production of a knittedfabric having a colored relief pattern a Jacquard knitting machine ODZIprovided with pattern wheels, 36, 7", gg. .18" and 36 feeders. Thematerial for the rib courses was a yarn Nm 48 consisting of 40% ofVelana, i.e., copolyester fiber based on polyethylene terephthalate andpolyethylene isophthalate and 60% of Tesil 31, i.e., a copolyester fiberand the material for the plain courses was a polyamide textured yarn Td120.

FINISHING Shrinkage: Steaming for 30-60 seconds or 10 minutes shrinkingat boil. The shrinking can also be carried out in the dyeing bath duringthe dyeing process. 7

Scouring: For 30 minutes in a bath containing'0.2 g./l.

of Slovaton, (manufacturers mark for non-ionic ethylene oxidecondensate) and 3 g./l. of sodium carbonate at a temperature of 60 C.,.or at boil.

Dyeing: 0.1 g./l. of Sovaton, trademark of National Enterprise, Novaky,Czechoslovakia 2% of Neckal BX, manufactured by Spolek pro chemickou ahutni vyrobu Usti nad Labem, Czechsolvakia (a sodiumdibutylnaphthalenesulfonate),

formic acid, pH 4-5,

3-5% of a dyestuff.

The starting temperature of 40 C. was slowly increased to the boilingpoint of the bath and after 11.5 hours slowly reduced. The fabric wasthereafter rinsed in warm and cold water.

Softening: 1 g./l. of Synthamin KX manufactured by Spolek pro chemickoua hutni vyrobu Usti nad Labem, Czechoslovakia (a cationic lubricatingand softening agent) 20 minutes at 3040 C.

Hydroextracting: Slight Drying: To C., or heat setting at C. for 30 to60 seconds.

EXAMPLE 2 There was used for the production of a knitted fabric having acolor relief pattern a knitting machine METO, 32", gg. 20" and 44feeders. The material for forming the rib courses was a Nm 48 yarncontaining 40% of Velana S manufactured by Silon National. Enterprise,Plana, Czechoslovakia, i.e., copolyester fiber formed from polyethyleneterephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate, and 60% of Velana Nmanufactured by Silon National Enterprise, Plana, Czechoslovakia, i.e.,a non-shrinkable copolyester fiber, and for the plain course there wasused a polyamide textured yarn, Td 120.

Finishing:

Shrinking: as described in Example 1 Heat-settingz 30-60 seconds at 190C. Dyeing: as described in Example 1 Softening: as described in Example1 Hydroextracting: as described in Example 1 Drying: to 100 C.

EXAMPLE 3 There was used for the production of a knitted fabric having acolored relief pattern a Jacquard knitting machine ODZI provided withpattern wheels e536, 7", gg. 18" and 36 feeders. As material for formingthe rib courses there-was used a yarn Nm 50 containing 67% of Tesilmanufactured by Silon National Enterprise, Plana, Czechoslovakia, and33% of cotton and for forming the plain courses there was used a yarn Nm50 containing 40% of Velana S (a copolyester fiber based on polyethyleneterephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate) and 60% of Tesil 31 or ahighly extensible textured polyamide yarn, Td 120 (Titer-denier).

Finishing:

Shrinking: as described in Example 1 Heat-setting: 30-60 seconds at 190C. Dyeing: as described in Example 1 Softening: as described in Example1 Hydroextracting: as described in Example 1 Drying: to 100 C.

EXAMPLE 4 For the production of a knitted fabric having a colored reliefpattern there was used a raschel machine, gg 24 sax. The knitted fabricwas made by using two or more yarn systems, some of which contained Nm48 x 2 yarn consisting of 40% Velana S (a copolyester fiber based onpolyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate) and 60% ofTesil 31, and the other containing a textured yarn Td 120 formed frompolyamide, polyester, or polypropylene.

Finishing:

Shrinking: as described in Example 1 Heat-setting: 30-60 seconds at 190C. Dyeing: as described in Example 1 Softening: as described in Example1 Hydroextracting: as described in Example 1 Drying: 100 C.

EXAMPLE 5 There was used for producing a knitted fabric having a coloredrelief pattern a Jacquard knitting machine ODZI provided with patternwheels, gg. 18". As material for the rib courses a yarn Nm 60 was used,containing 40% Velana S, i.e., copolyester fiber based on polyethyleneterephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate, and 60% of Velana N, i.e.,non-shrinkable polyester fiber, and for the plain courses a texturedpolyester yarn, Td 150. Finishing:

Shrinking: as described in Example 1 Heat-setting: 30-60 seconds at 190C.

Dyeing: as described in Example 1 Softening: as described in Example 1Hydroextracting: as described in Example 1 Drying: to 100 C.

We claim:

1. A shrunk and dyed knitted fabric, the said fabric being composed ofinterlooped rib courses and plain courses of yarns arranged in a reliefpattern, the yarns of each course having dilferent heat-shrinkabilitycharacteristics, different affinity for particular dyes, and beingshrunk to different lengths, so that the less-shrinkable yarns form arelief pattern having a first color and the more-shrinkable yarns form abase for the relief pattern and have a different second color.

2. A patterned fabric according to claim 1 wherein the difference inshrinkability between the yarns of the two different systems amounts toat least 15%.

3. A patterned fabric according to claim 1 wherein the more shrinkableyarns contain filaments or staple fibers prepared from copolyesters ofpolyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene isophthalate.

4. A patterned fabric according to claim 1 wherein said less shrinkableyarn is a synthetic yarn.

5. A patterned fabric according to claim 4 wherein said shrinkable yarnis a textured yarn.

6. A patterned fabric according to claim 1 wherein said less shrinkableyarn is dyeable up to a shrinkage temperature of the more shrinkableyarn by other dyes than are required for dyeing the more shrinkableyarn.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,135,350 11/1938 Meyers 161-912,960,750 11/1960 Matthews 161-67 3,199,281 8/1965 'Maerov et a1.161-172 3,416,302 12/1968 Knospe 161-172 3,441,468 4/1969 Siggel et a1.161-169 3,681,910 8/1972 Reese 161-172 2,627,644 2/ 1953 Foster 161-732,977,664 4/1961 Grajeck 161-48 WILLIAM J. VAN BALEN, Primary ExaminerS. S. SILVERMAN, Assistant Examiner US. Cl. X.R.

